cycling Col de Peyresourde
The Col de Peyresourde starts in the spa town of Bagnere-de-Luchon. I arrive in Luchon on a sunny afternoon and go to the first bike shop I can find. It looks more like a cyclo cemetery with bike parts, tubes and tyres scattered around the entrance. There are numerous second-hand bikes for sale. They all look rather creaky and sad. The owner comes out from his workshop and nods hello. I ask to hire a �velo pour le montagnes.� My grammar is like my cycling, shaky at the best of the times. The owner looks around the mess of his workshop and walks across to a black carbon fibre model that looks sturdy yet... well-used. I ask him the price. Usually, daily rental cost is between 30 and 45 Euros. He says, '15 Euros.' I nod blankly, trying to hide my excitement. �Avez vous pump, repair kit,� I say, mixing bad french with lazy English. He shrugs, but I think it means yes. I return an hour later, dressed in serious lycra, and he takes my credit card and 15 Euros. With some sluggishness,...