cycling Col d'Aspin

The Col d�Aspin has featured sixty-six times in the Tour de France and yet is relatively unknown compared to its more prominent Pyrenees partners such as Tourmalet, Peyresourde and Superbagneres. Perhaps it's the relatively �minor� altitude of 1,489 metres that sees it, literally and metaphorically, dwarfed against the Pyrenean giants. This is a pity. Col d�Aspin is truly one of the great mountain climbs of the Tour de France. 

I begin the ascent from the east side in the village of Arreau very early in the morning, far too early for any self-respecting French cyclist. Consequently, I have the road to myself. It�s only nine degrees as I set out and Aspin offers me an easy warm-up with the first few kilometres among the forest beside a rushing stream, averaging 4%. The road is much narrower than many Tour climbs and has lovely old stone walls as embankments. I am climbing a historic road, first used in the Tour in 1910.

The gradient soon cranks up and I�m amazed at the splendid views back to the snow-capped mountains on the Spanish border. They seem to loom larger as I climb. As I look ahead, I can see the pass where this road goes between two mountains. There appears to be animals grazing where the road should be, but perhaps my eyes are playing tricks? A man walks home from his morning stroll and enters a stone farmhouse with a 180-degree view of stunning peaks. I wonder how much he wants for the old pile?

My climb, once again, is accompanied by signs every kilometre announcing the elevation and average gradient. I laugh at the drawing of a cyclist on the sign and the angle he�s riding. Looks pretty steep to me. Sooner than I expect, I have only five kilometres to the summit and the gradient increases yet again. The Scotch Bloom is yellowing the meadows and I can hear cow bells from above. Still no other cyclists, just the occasional farmer�s van. I�m riding with one hand on the handlebars, the other on my camera. 

With four kilometres to go, I have decided that if I�m allowed to ride only one road for the rest of my life, this would be it. While my favourite climb is Col de la Croix de Fer in the French Alps, I wouldn�t want to take on that beast every day. But, I can easily imagine myself, wheeling the bike out of the shed at Arreau and ascending this gem each morning. The beauty of Aspin is that it links two major mountain climbs - Tourmalet on the west side and Peyresourde to the east. Perhaps that explains its regular appearance on the Tour. I prefer to think the organisers know a great road when they ride it.

Three kilometres to go. The Spanish mountains are at my rear, to my left the Pic de Neouvielle rears above the clouds and the sign tells me it�s 8% time. No matter. I have deliberately slowed to enjoy the view. My bike, Murray laughs disdainfully. He knows my knees are creaking. 

The names of Tour riders are painted on the road surface, as with many famous climbs. But, near the top, in yellow paint is one addition. ETA. The Basque Separatist Group are obviously not against getting free publicity every time the peloton climbs here. 

I look ahead. There are definitely cows on the summit. With one kilometre to go, I increase my cadence from slow to demi-slow. As I near the pass, the cow bells sound as if to trumpet my arrival. Merci, vache. 

As I crest the top, artfully dodging cow pats and two motorcyclists, I am open-mouthed at the views. Snow-capped peaks front and back, meadows and walking trails to my left and a steep pasture rearing up to my right. And a cow waltzing across the road to stand beside me and admire the view.

�Nice place you have here,� I say.

He appears to nod before walking off to chew on some more lush mountain pasture. 

A blonde woman in hiking clothes approaches and offers to take my photo. I stand behind Murray, his black paintjob gleaming in the morning sunshine. She asks me if I�d take a photo of her. I nod readily. Before I do, she indicates for me to loan her Murray for the shot. We both laugh. She stands proudly beside Murray and smiles. Before handing him back, she lifts him, saying something in French, which I imagine means, �It�s light,� Or maybe, �It must be easy to climb with a bike that doesn�t weigh much.� Murray prefers to think she said, �He is beautiful and so athletic!�

I�d love to stay here, but the summit is becoming crowded with motorcyclists and cars, everyone getting out for quick snaps of the surrounding peaks before speeding off. I reluctantly descend. And for the first time ever, I overtake a van. Murray is more agile than any cumbersome winnebago. We speed off before I come to my senses and apply the brakes. I�d rather look at the views than race German tourists. 

Five kilometres down, I turn a corner and come face to wheel with a herd of cows being lead up the road by a shepherd who is wearing the obligatory Basque cap. I stop and hop off the bike, keeping Murray between me and the horns of the lead bull, just in case. 

And all too soon I�m back in Arreau. 

Excuse me, while I go to the real estate office. To be able to ride this road every day. I can always dream.



Col d'Aspin is a Category one climb of 12.5 kilometres with an average gradient of 6.5%. elevation gain is  789 metres.

This is an edited extract from my latest ebook, titled 'bordeaux and bicycles' about my cycling adventures in France. It's available for US$2.99 here if you live in the USA, here for the UK and here for Australia.